UMLINGLA – the highest motorable pass
Umlingla Pass is located in south east of Ladakh and is currently the highest motorable pass which is 5799 metres (19024 feet) high. Earlier, it was the mighty Khardungla which is 5,602 m (18,379 ft) high.
The Umling La pass is traversed by a road between Chisumle and Demchok, also called the Umling La Road.
How to reach
Umlingla is located in the south eastern region of Ladakh, which is close to Demchok located on the Indo-China border. Hanle is the famous tourist town, which has to be reached prior to reaching Umlingla pass. First one must reach Hanle either from Pangong or from Neoma side.
The latest fuel pump has been operational at Nyoma, therefore, make sure to fuel up here as there are no fuel pumps towards Hanle-Umlingla. If you are coming from Pangong even then I would suggest you to reach first to Nyoma and fill up tanks. The road to Nyoma from Pangong changes from Loma bridge. From here fuel pump is just 21 Kms and the road is full tarmac.
Mainly, there are two routes to reach Umlingla pass from Hanle. Hanle-Photila-Umlingla, Hanle-Nurbula-Umlingla. First, being a black top means a tarmac road and latter being a dusty off-road.
Do not disturb Google Maps, as it won’t be of any help here, as there is no official route from Hanle to Umlingla (So far in 2024)
Hanle-Photila-umlingla
Both Hanle-Photila-Umlingla and Hanle-Nurbula-Umlingla passes through Chisumle bridge, which is the gateway to Umlingla.
Hanle to Umlingla via Photila-Chisumle brigde is a full tarmac road, however, it goes through steap, narrow and dangerous to and from Photila pass. Photila is located at a height of 18124 ft and reaching there from Hanle is not very challenging other than the power it require under your vehicle, as the roads are narrow and steap.
Once you are on the Photila top, going down is also not easy as it contains lots of narrow and dangerous hair-pins and it really tests the brakes of the vehicle. Some of the hair-pins are narrow as well as blind, where one must be careful speacially with cars.
Once you are down, you will be at Katlay (36 Kms from Hanle), from here there are two roads one towards Koyal and other towards Umlingla, which is towards right. Proper markings or boards are setup by BRO for guidance.
From here, Umlingla is almost 45Kms. You can also camp here at Katlay beside the river. After 11 Kms, you will reach to Chisumle Bridge, which is the gateway to Umlingla, here you can relax and enjoy some lunch or tea.
Chisumle to Umlingla is almost 35Km and again goes through steap and narrow roads, but not as narrow as Photila is.
While returning it is Chisumle at where you can decide either to take the same Photila route or choose the Nurbulapass road. I personally suggest Nurbula while returning as Photila from this side is very steap and can be a concern for some drivers specially loaded vehicles.
Hanle-NUrbula-umlingla
Hanle-Nurbula is a tricky route and one can easily distract and lost. The road is all deserted with sand. In case, it rains please avoid this road at any cost as then it be challenging or may be impossible to drive at places, specially on Nurbula top.
Even when it is dry the road could cause bubbling of the vehicles specially motorcycles, that could be a cause of concern for some on tight and narrow Nurbula hair-pins. Do not travel alone on this road, there is vehicle movement but it could take time for help to arrive and can cause important time.
This route passes through some villages and there are no official sign boards and at time driver could miss the hand written signages from locals and can be a reason for distraction. Time is important on this route and there is not chance of staying at Umlingla and one must return to Hanle within day light. This route is not at all suggested at dark.
Once again this route will also take you to Chisumle from where one can choose the other route. I suggest if you have enough time then you can return from Nurbula top otherwise, please choose Photila route as it is straight forwards.
There could be deep water crossings on this route as this route goes through villages and plane terrain. There are bridges at places but people tend to miss marking and end up on deep water crossings.
UMLINGLA PASS
I am sure you will get the feeing of being on top of the world, once you reach, Umlingla pass. After all you are higher than the Everest base camp at 19024 ft and the view is awesome. As the border is also not far, near Demchok, I would suggest to go there and witness the Indo-China border.
As you are on a very high altitude try to preserve your energy and oxygen and come down as soon as possible. Being on top for longer duration is not suggested. You can enjoy some snacks, tea or maggie at the world’s highest cafe, take some memorable pictures.
When to visit ?
Umlingla pass is only open during Summer (April-July) and post Monsoon (End-of-August-October) season. Best time would be mid-September, as that is when the whole Ladakh is bright after rains and landscape would be much more scenic and colorful. There are less chances of deep water crossings and snow.
However, if you are planning to witness snow, it is better to visit in April and May. Umlingla is India and BRO’s pride and a miracle developed by Indian Armed Forces. This place is a must visit.
