Khardungla Pass is dream of many travelers and riders and we were on the footsteps of that dream becoming true.
After a day of relaxation in Leh city witnessing Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Leh Market and few more near by sights. Our 2nd day in Ladakh was one of the most adventurous and dream come true day.
Khardungla: a dream come true
On my first time travel to Ladakh, I visited Khardungla pass in 2012 and there I met a motorcyclist who came to Ladakh on a Royal Enfield Classic with India’s flag proudly waving in front of his bike. He came far from Bangalore.
He was not the only one, there were more people on their motorcycles and one of them was with his wife and kid on his RE classic. Winds were gushing at high speeds, snow all around and people looking for shelter. That was my moment of inspiration.
I decided then and there, that one day I will also come to Ladakh and specially to Khardungla on a motorcycle.
PAST TO PRESENT
I made this promise in 2021 and here in 2025 I traveled Khardungla not once but thrice on my motorcycle, but, as we say it is the first time which is always special. This is the story of my first ever motorcycle travel to the mighty Khardungla. I was at Leh going to the mighty Khardungla pass. I was truely scared, my first visual of Khardungla was of extreme snow and gusty winds.
Moreover, I heard stories of bikers slipping on black ice which make me more nervous. It was my first ever bike tour this far and that too on a challenging terrain.
The day we landed in Leh, heavy snow and black Ice buid up forced Khardung La to be closed for bikers. We were not even sure that, we could be allowed the next day.
Travelling from Delhi to Sringar then to Leh covering more than 1000 Kms on my first ever long motorcycle trip was not easy. Long never ending highways of Haryana, Punjab and Kashmir to dangerous passes, narrow and mountanious roads of Ladakh with a 250 Kg loaded motorcycle was a challenge and a nightmare for me.
However, my passion and dedication of making this dream true was far more significant for my under confident personality. Surviving, 2 covid waves was not easy for any of us. Motorcycling gave me a reason to live life to the fullest.
It gave me the confidence to conquer the mighty Khardungla.
WHY KHARDUNG LA ?
Finally, on day 2 the sun was shining bright and we were thrilled to know that we can travel to Khardung La pass. Khardung La is not just a mountain where one must pay their visit. Moreover, it is a key pass between Leh and Nubra Valley.
It is possibly the shortest route from Leh to Nubra valley which is around 115 Kms.
There are other routes too, which can be driven to reach Nubra valley-Diskit-Hunder but they are long example Leh-Chang La-Nubra-Diskit is 260 Kms. One would only travel this long when Khardung La is not open.
Khardungla is the gateway to North west Ladakh, and is the only pass which is opened all year around, no matter how harsh the weather. If you want to visit Diksit and Hunder then you cannot avoid this pass.
FIRST POINT – SOUTH PULLU
After starting from Leh, the first check point is South Pullu. You have to register yourself at this point. From here you will start seeing snow glaciers and valleys which will mesmerize you. Leh to South Pullu is approx. 26 Kms. and from South Pullu to Khardung La pass is approx. 47 Kms.
When we started from South Pullu towards Khardung la, the snow started to fall so we had to wore our rain jacket and pants. The weather changes frequently on high passes therefore, one must be fully prepared for any extreme weather situation. Don’t get dishearten, if you have to return in between. As it could be highly dangerous in extreme weather conditions.
IMPORTANT TIP FOR NON-LADAKI PRIVATE VEHICLES
If you are travelling on a motorcycle via Khardungla pass, make sure to carry your vehicle registration certificate and your identification papers (Aadhaar, License etc.). Make sure, the vehicle is registered on your or your relative name (only blood relations-Father, Mother, Wife). If that is not the case, then you would not be allowed to travel to Khardungla and have to return from the first check point.
In case, you cannot avoid Khardungla, then you must rent a motorcycle from Leh.
Khardung La Pass
After riding in snow, only one phobia causing fear inside us, the black ice and bad roads of Khardung La pass, however I kept my nerves in control, we crossed some mesmerizing views and reached Khardung la by noon. Weather was on and off, there was snow on the top but not much as it was in 2012.
It was a dream come true. A promise made in 2012 was fulfilled. It was a very emotional moment for all of us. We captured those special moments and stayed there for a while.
Khardung La is 18000 feet high. Lower levels of oxygen and chance of weather changing gears any moment minimizes staying long at top. You can enjoy tea at Army canteen other than that there is nothing much for one to eat. It was an awesome feeling and mesmerizing views, I am sure you won’t think about food at that moment.
DECEND – NORTH PULLU
After crossing Khardung La pass it was all snow and bad roads filled with big path holes, it is due to frequent snow and constant traffic movement of heavy vehicles. Keeping roads in good shape is a challenge for B.R.O., who maintain these roads.
Next viewpoint on this route is North Pullu, there you can take a break and enjoy local food like Thupka, which is a traditional ladakhi soup. You may or may not find it delicious, but it is very healthy for sure.
Unlike South pullu which is rocky terrain, North Pullu offers some green scenic views and white glaciers. It is just like a scenery which we often saw in pictures. We captured some reels and pictures with water flowing from the glaciers.
KHARDUNG – DISKIT – HUNDER
North Pullu is next check point after Khardung. Distance from North Pullu to Khardung is just 17 Kms. After crossing Khardung, you will witness the beautiful blue water Shyok river which flows close to the road till Diskit.
Diskit is the town which is famous for the Diskit Monestary. We did not stopped here as we had to reach Hunder which is only 10 to 11 Kms and is famous for the sand dunes.
We were suppose to stay for the night in Hunder and cover Diskit on the very next day.
There are many hotels, homestays and camps in Hunder. One can choose based on availability and choice. However, I recommend to book one in advance specially in May-June as instant availability might be a challenge and may cost more. Additionally, reaching Hunder after day light in dark could be one of the difficult hotel hunts which one would like to avoid in extreme cold conditions at night.
stay at Hunder
We reached late at dark and with no pre-booked property we had to struggle for some time in finding a camp. We checked out few hotels but they were too expensive for our budget.
A camp based on the season and situation could cost between 2K to 3K INR. However, it could be higher in case of high demand and peak season.
We parked our bikes in the camp’s parking and enjoyed our dinner in the camp itself. The next day is going to be an emotional one, why that would be clear in my next blog when we reach India-Pakistan border in our next blog.
The weather at Hunder gets extreme cold in the night, if you are not comfortable living in a camp (tent) then prefer a hotel. The winds are heavy as it is a valley between several high mountains and river flowing near by.
Compared to 2012, now there are more properties in Hunder. However, after covid tourism has grown substantially and finding a stay in peak seasons, would be challenging. We recommend to book a stay in advance.
Booking your hotel after reaching Leh. Contact your local stay operator, they can help you with your booking or at least share exact scenario.
TIP: I would not recommend booking a hotel in hunder/Diskit before reaching Leh. Weather changes frequently and in such a scenario where you cannot travel to Hunder due to extreme weather at Khardungla, then it will be a waste of money.
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